tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2071144834934460442024-02-21T07:13:11.260-08:00Shanty BoatThe evolution, construction, and adventures of a humble little shanty boat.Wes Modeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13936508359690388713noreply@blogger.comBlogger65125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207114483493446044.post-12486698007213789292014-07-10T22:57:00.002-07:002017-04-01T18:01:37.545-07:00On the Eve of the Secret History of American River People Expedition<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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As you may have heard, the shantyboat nears completion and we are readying it for the Secret History of American River People expedition on the Upper Mississippi starting in a few days.<br />
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This is a research journey to gather and present the lost stories of people living on or adjacent to the river. You can read all about it at <a href="http://peoplesriverhistory.us/" target="_blank">the project website</a>.<br />
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You can follow our progress on our voyage. You may want to hear about our triumphs and travails and the
cool people we meet. If so, you can get automatic updates via email
(or Twitter or Instagram and so on) right here:
<a href="http://peoplesriverhistory.us/contact/" target="_blank">http://peoplesriverhistory.us/contact/</a><br />
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I also hope you will keep in touch with us and send us contacts of amazing people we want to talk to on the Upper Mississippi.<br />
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Thanks for all your support that has made this project possible.<br />
<br />Wes Modeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13936508359690388713noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207114483493446044.post-36451535626039528142014-06-11T18:13:00.001-07:002017-04-01T18:01:37.551-07:00Shantyboat on the MississippiIn July, we are bringing the shantyboat across country to launch in the Mississippi River on an art and history expedition:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ8QV-v_6QkJi6p4sRzCiDT8NXYNTRbWrvNtil6L-pjPdqi5ltoNeoH9xy8Gb411qZO8-kz7eztc0znbdKAKrVfhjb1IgPtAHFGDnj3XjngnNcoS0EPTegTVbbx7YwxgocMUZKmBIIzH4X/s1600/4243095018_0e3c090804_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ8QV-v_6QkJi6p4sRzCiDT8NXYNTRbWrvNtil6L-pjPdqi5ltoNeoH9xy8Gb411qZO8-kz7eztc0znbdKAKrVfhjb1IgPtAHFGDnj3XjngnNcoS0EPTegTVbbx7YwxgocMUZKmBIIzH4X/s1600/4243095018_0e3c090804_o.jpg" height="513" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thanks to espressobuzz for the historic photo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">A journey to rediscover the lost narratives of river people, river communities, and the river itself. </span><br />
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<i><span style="font-size: large;">Secret History is an anthro-historical artist's journey through the history of a river.</span></i><span style="font-size: large;"><i> It weaves together threads of adventure, history, art, and story. </i></span><br />
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We take to the river, Those forgotten waterways that flow through most towns, hidden behind levees, shoved underground or behind the seediest neighborhood.<br />
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Just a few generations ago, there were whole communities of people living right on the river in shantyboats. And people living in the bottomlands that flood every spring. Now mostly all gone.<br />
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We are fundraising right now to help make the project happen. There is also a beautiful video we produced to give you a lyrical flavor of the project.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1245766964/a-secret-history-of-american-river-people" target="_blank">Support A Secret History of American River People Kickstarter</a></div>
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The Kickstarter campaign is critical for launching the Secret History expedition. It will help pay for final outfitting of the shantyboat and transporting it across country. It will make sure we have decent audio-video equipment to record our interviews in the river communities we visit.<br />
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Thanks for helping support the project.Wes Modeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13936508359690388713noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207114483493446044.post-77924315227509861202014-03-15T11:24:00.000-07:002017-04-01T17:41:43.728-07:00What the #*@&% happened?You must hate me.
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Last I left you with "Walls take shape" and then radio silence for six months. Did I lose interest in the project? Get tragically killed by a falling jet engine? <br />
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No, I'm not dead and the project is moving along albeit a little more slowly. I started grad school. Which means that I no longer have the time for such luxuries as eating and sleeping. However, I still spent many weekends working on the boat.<br />
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So the blog is six months behind, but the shantyboat is six months further along. Things in store for you as I update the blog, walls, windows, roof, decks, steps, doors. Cool things like that.<br />
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So feel free to send me an <a href="mailto:wmodes@gmail.com">email</a> urging me along with blog posts. Here's my commitment: For every email, I receive from a different blog reader, I will create a new shantyboat post.Wes Modeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13936508359690388713noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207114483493446044.post-75181635200734605252013-07-29T13:05:00.001-07:002017-04-01T18:01:37.560-07:00Roof Rafters - The cabin takes shapeWhen we disassembled the Hollister chicken coop, we got a bunch of beautiful old 1x12 redwood siding, a shitton of corrugated metal, a handful of old dimensional redwood 2x4s, and finally, a dozen or so roof rafters, complete with birdsmouths.<br />
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True they were old and some were a little worse for wear, rotted at the ends or showing signs of termites, but most were quite usable.<br />
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This is an awesome diagram with much of what you need to know about roofs in general. Terms you'll need for our shantyboat roof are <i>common rafter, ridgeboard, birdsmouth, eave, gable end and gable end stud, ladder, collar tie, and rafter tie (also called a ceiling joist)</i>.<br />
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I sorted the good rafters from the marginal. The usable but marginal ones I treated with CopperGreen Clear and cut off the bad parts.<br />
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Since our shantyboat is smaller than the original chicken coop, I cut the rafters down to size, decreasing the overall length as well as the length of the eaves. I carefully cut the angle where they met in the center and re-cut the angle of the birdsmouth.<br />
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I laid them out on the floor of the barn, and used a temporary plywood collar tie (leaving a slot at the top for the ridgeboard) to keep everything from going wonky while I struggled to secure them into place.<br />
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With some ridiculously awkward effort, I got the two end rafters up supporting the ridgeboard.<br />
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Then one by one, I installed each of the rafter pairs.<br />
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Finally, I added a permanent collar tie to each of the inside rafter. I suppose soon I will have to add a ladder to support the gable overhang and a fly rafter.<br />
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At the end of the day, for the first time, I was able to see the shape and size and height of this crazy boat.Wes Modeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13936508359690388713noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207114483493446044.post-83514247901460258682013-07-29T12:00:00.000-07:002017-04-01T18:01:37.567-07:00Cabin Framing, More Mistakes Were MadeIf there's one thing I'm good at, it's not being good as things. But given my delightfully blinding optimism, I plunge on ahead anyway, learning a ton with each monumental goof.<br />
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You remember the cabin framing looked like this. That's more or less an eight foot wall, with maybe 1 foot 8 inches below the deck of the hull. The height was chosen more or less arbitrarily, based I think on having 8 foot two-by stock to work with for the framing.<br />
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At this point I'm thinking all the great and rare 1x12 redwood we <a href="http://littleshantyboat.blogspot.com/2012/04/destruction-and-creation.html">pulled from the decommissioned chicken coop</a> was not going to be enough wood, and was gong to be too brittle, too bug eaten or rotten, and too heavy. So I was pricing new redwood, though this was not my ideal.<br />
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When I got down to thinking about (and pricing) the redwood siding, I realized I'd made a small but critical blunder. About 2-1/2 inches of blunder.<br />
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Had I made the walls a tiny tiny bit shorter, I could have used 6 foot long boards for the siding. This made a huge difference in the pricing since 1x12 or 1x10 redwood is already expensive, but longer lengths are even more so. With 6 foot lengths, I could easily cut 12' lumber in half, but the next common step up is 16' lengths, which were much more spendy and wasteful.<br />
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Well, the cabin already looked ridiculously tall, and I wasn't yet committed to the height, so I decided to do something crazy...<br />
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I cut the walls down 2-1/2 inches. I clamped my carpenter's square to each stud to serve as a guide for my skillsaw and cut a few inches off of each stud.<br />
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Considering that everything was glued and screwed (or nailed), it wasn't easy. I had to remove the little stud nubs and glue and nail the top plate to the new tops of the studs.<br />
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It only took most of a morning to fix the height of the cabin. Now the walls measure exactly six foot from the deck to the top of the walls.<br />
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As a consolation for my troubles (and perhaps reward for conscientiously correcting my mistake), I had a beautiful visitor that day.Wes Modeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13936508359690388713noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207114483493446044.post-83090204679595239712013-07-15T13:44:00.002-07:002017-04-01T18:03:17.989-07:00Cabin Wall Framing. Finally.Whew, finally. We get to constructing the cabin walls. This is the fun part for me. As a former carpenter, framing construction is well-within my comfort zone.<img border="0" height="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeLlNNjvzmHIc0i0dgf1zmTvstDYqQ7Wfxb2q2ONm1grRj26uk9Ocp3VdGdvuvr6ue2nj_n9tlkK_LEOFMz5lDB2cJxLU7j5rlWg410FM_EsRUX2bRyD4ePU7vlr9kCw393O194W1zbRch/s640/IMG_1141.JPG" width="0" /><br />
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Initially, it looked like it would be easy as pie. I planned to simplify the standard stud construction to reduce weight: (single) sole plate + studs + (single) top plate + simplified door and window openings.<br />
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But as I started planning out the end walls, I realized I needed access to the space under the decks, and so the end walls had to work around that.<br />
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The side walls were a little simpler and more conventional.<br />
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I was using all recycled Doug Fir 2x4s from the salvage pile at the dump, ripped from 3-1/2 inches to 3 inches.<br />
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Looking one more time at my wall detail, you see that the coaming (labeled "edgeboard") is cut into the wall studs. So I had to dado a sizable groove into each of my studs to accept the coaming.<br />
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Real woodworkers have tools for this, but I had to resort to some deft skillsaw work. And without a working wood chisel, I was sadly using a flat head screwdriver. Embarrassing. But it worked reasonably well.<br />
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Next, I assembled the walls on the floor of the barn, and then awkwardly personhandled them solo into place in the boat. Every connection was adhered with construction adhesive and nailed.<br />
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In the boat, the wall framing was glued and screwed.<br />
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Two walls.<br />
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Three.<br />
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With window framing and blocking added.<br />
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And finally four finished walls. In this last photo, you can see the doorframe to the head on the right.<br />
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A big day, for sure. Time for a cigar. Next up, more mistakes were made.<br />
<br />Wes Modeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13936508359690388713noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207114483493446044.post-5021508034251062242013-07-15T12:58:00.000-07:002017-04-01T18:03:33.215-07:00New Boat Vocabulary Word: Coaming<div>
One of the smarter things I've done on the shantyboat, was to add a coaming around the edge of the cabin. A new vocab word for me as I slowly get all nautical during the one plus year shantyboat build:</div>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<h3 style="background-color: white; color: #212121; display: inline; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: medium; font-weight: normal; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">
<span class="vk_ans vk_bk" style="font-size: xx-large !important; margin-bottom: 5px;">coam·ing</span> </h3>
<div class="vk_sh" style="background-color: white; color: #212121; font-family: arial, sans-serif;">
/ˈkōmiNG/</div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #212121; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: small; line-height: 15px;">
<table class="vk_txt ts" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-size: small !important; margin-top: 20px;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="padding: 0px;"><div class="vk_gy vk_sh" style="color: rgb(135, 135, 135) !important; font-size: medium !important;">
Noun</div>
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<table class="ts" style="border-collapse: collapse;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="padding: 0px;"><ol style="border: 0px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 0px 19px;">
<li class="vk_txt" style="border: 0px; font-size: small !important; line-height: 1.2; list-style: decimal; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">A raised border around a ship's hatch serving to support the hatch covers and to keep out water.</li>
<li class="vk_txt" style="border: 0px; font-size: small !important; line-height: 1.2; list-style: decimal; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">A similar structure around the cockpit of a boat.</li>
</ol>
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</blockquote>
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The Glen-L Waterlodge plans didn't call for a coaming, since Glen's cabin design was significantly different, and he wasn't nutty enough to consider board and batten as a cabin exterior material.</div>
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Take a look again at my wall cutaway diagram:</div>
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The coaming is the board labeled "edgeboard" against the inside edge of the side framing member. My goal was to make sure that if water splashed up on the exterior board and batten, that it would not easily get into the boat, more so because I plan to fiberglass right up to and over the coaming.</div>
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Here's what it looked like without the coaming.</div>
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I had the lumberyard rip a few 2x6s edgewise to create the coaming. </div>
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Of course, I epoxied and screwed it into place.<br />
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Later when we fiberglass the decks, we will create a curved filet at the inside corner and curve the fiberglass up over the coaming.<br />
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For some reason it strikes me as unusually handsome and boaty.<br />
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<br />Wes Modeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13936508359690388713noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207114483493446044.post-89022441288311915782013-07-12T14:00:00.000-07:002017-04-01T17:41:43.755-07:00A Collection of Photos from a Non-Shantyboat River FloatI took a two-week break from building the shantyboat to float the Sacramento River. I post this here, because floating on these big rivers is where I got the craving for living on a shantyboat.<img border="0" height="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBxiQvFfIfTkoKvdrgK9ZSzhHPOLnNxZ6vqe1v3uhpcdqV4zPCqSuxc5vsF-xsCy42o72-POPll52DUot3Q0hKTmxd6oqbp29T79kDuDV8x2JTF_wxC_KUMhIYZ7yFw-tiuMpB4hd_Jp18/s640/IMG_1216.JPG" width="0" /><br />
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Some of my favorite times are from drifting aimlessly in our DIY raft during hot summer days. These rafts were themselves kind of shantyboats, equipped as they were with a comfy couch, a driftwood and canvas cabin, a library, a shisha pipe, houseplants, all the comforts of home. But I remember moving this giant craft with no keel around on the river with canoe paddles. Totally exhausting after a while. <br />
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This time down the river, Kai and I went a lot lighter, opting for a simple canoe and a kayak. And because I just don't know how to leave well enough alone, I was going to experiment with a DIY outrigger on the canoe for stability.<br />
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We were bringing Hazel Dog along, so (thanks to Bonnie) we had a doggy life vest for her.<br />
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Here's our mountain of stuff, including the kayak borrowed from cousin Brian and Hazel Dog in the background.<br />
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It all finds its way into the truck.<br />
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A five hour drive to Redding from where we were going to launch. Google maps shows it as just over four hours, but when you don't dare go much over 60 mph, it takes longer. Kai looks placid in this photo, but her expression belies the fact that she is terrified of my truck with good reason. <br />
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Readying our stuff at the boat launch at Turtle Bay in Redding. This was the first summer that the gianormous diversion dam at Red Bluff had been left open to allow the river to flow freely (Yay, salmon!). So unlike previous trips where we had started in Red Bluff below the dam, we could start 50 miles further upriver and see the gorgeous section of river between Redding and Red Bluff.<br />
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Kai proudly shows off her ingenious DIY shade structure she constructed out of PVC and bamboo for the kayak. It probably saved her life since she is a pale redhead that shrivels up and dies under the heat of the sun. It also made me envious and self-recriminatory that I had not spent a little time constructing a similar shade for my canoe.<br />
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The outrigger worked beautifully. An eight inch sealed PVC tube crossed with timber bamboo and secured with bike innertubes. The normally-tippy canoe was solid as a rock. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs6If2o6xiYVahOasNIPrhpCN76hb_S0jQQklQH4d4CUX2yybg3b9yf7AaJbi3gyecaUQ0Xgw2ELNUqSVj28_SAUefE1KcosSMYn6Ez33Szsb1STtH_yaQIYYvXXp_I_OCVapxCTwp-NH3/s1600/Michelin-Tires-Houston-Texas1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="207" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs6If2o6xiYVahOasNIPrhpCN76hb_S0jQQklQH4d4CUX2yybg3b9yf7AaJbi3gyecaUQ0Xgw2ELNUqSVj28_SAUefE1KcosSMYn6Ez33Szsb1STtH_yaQIYYvXXp_I_OCVapxCTwp-NH3/s320/Michelin-Tires-Houston-Texas1.jpg" width="320" /></a>The doggy life vest did not make Hazel happy. But she only had to wear it during our initial first few scary moments on the river and later when we encountered anything gnarly.<br />
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She's normally pretty spry, but the tight vest left her unable to sit or curl up of jump or frolic. She just kind of stood there looking at us pleadingly. She looked a bit like the Michelin Man.<br />
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It was a simple life of reading and floating and occasionally paddling out of the way of snags and other hazards.<br />
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Camping along the river's edge on sandy verges.<br />
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Fishing. We caught two little trouts. One on a treble spoon and one with creepy little helgamites. We returned them to the river.<br />
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The helgamites came out at night and crawled over us as we were trying to enjoy our campfire. They are like hyper earwigs that were bitten by a radioactive millipede.<br />
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They do not normally calmly perch on your finger for a picture as in this photo. Normally they would be running balls-out either under a rock or up your leg into your shorts to hide.<br />
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For three nights, a storm kept us at a sweet improved DIY campsite we found along the river. We pciked lots of blackberries and ate them for dessert and breakfast.<br />
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As always, going down the river, various fisherpeople, boaters, and well-meaning fools, filled us with dread and dire misinformation about all the hazards we had yet to encounter. As it turned out, in retrospect, some of the first whitewater we encountered up near Redding was the most difficult. Whether that was because of the intensity of the river or our relative inexperience, is hard to know. But going down river, people -- and our maps -- concurred that the terror of the Chinese Rapids was the most dangerous stretch of the river.<br />
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Now true, the river was running high, and so some dangerous sections of the river were little more than riffles, and other mellow sections were dramatic, but still. I'd say the section of the river around the Chinese Rapids required us to remain alert, but did not offer us the Seven Shades of Death Served Up Cold and Wet we were promised.<br />
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It was however, intensely beautiful. A volcanic lava rock canyon, twisted into a dramatic S-bend, with harrowing jagged boulders erupting out of the stream. We were too busy to take photos of the most scenic part of the trip.<br />
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Red Bluff has always been kind to us when we've rafted the Sacramento. We camped near the I-5 bridge at the north end of town near a disc golf range.<br />
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We took a little vacation from our vacation, stocking up on used books, fishing tackle, and cafe breakfast, all of which were superb in Red Bluff.<br />
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The town rekindled my fantasy of a month- or more-long writer's retreat in some obscure little town, Red Bluff a definite candidate.<br />
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After Red Bluff we tackled another one of our feared hazards: the decommissioned Red Bluff diversion dam. In summers past, the gates of the dam were down, making it easy to draw water from the river for agricultural projects and forming a lake for Red Bluff summer recreation.<br />
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We only had a vague notion that it was save to pass under the dam, with some vague conflicting information from people whose job we believed was to know, park employees, river outfitters, and so on. It turned out to be less hazardous than passing under standard bridge pylons. But more dramatic, as you can see.<br />
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As we've done almost every year, we brought way too much food. But we cooked up amazing and delicious grub. There really is nothing else like the smell of bacon and onions and garlic frying outside.<br />
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Sometimes the wind would mess with my little camp stove and I'd have to improvise. I called this Stove Henge.<br />
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Rocking the River Amish look.<br />
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After our few days of stormy rain, the heat wave began. I love sun. I love hot. But anything that "feels like 119 degrees" is a bit much for me. </div>
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I had a little shade umbrella that I'd found at the last minute, not imagining I'd need it. It wasn't nearly enough. With Hazel panting like a freight train, I felt bad and gave her the shade of the little umbrella.<br />
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Our camp spots became strategic opportunities to hide in the shade of scant willows from the searing ball of fire in the sky.<br />
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One midday afternoon, we hid in the riverside jungle from the sun.<br />
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We camped on little islands and enjoyed the cool of the evenings.<br />
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When we stopped at Scotty's Landing near Chico for a lingering lunch, unexcited to go back into the heat, we started considering alternatives. Kai the fog-loving sun-hater was reasonably comfortable under her clever shade structure. I was lethargic and dehydrated and sunburned. The projection was for many more days of even hotter weather.<br />
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This was transportation alternative number one.<br />
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This is alternative number two. I caught a ride into Chico and waited around for the Grey Dog to take me back to Redding. Meanwhile, Kai lolled around with Hazel at the swimming hole before breaking down the boats and schlepping all our shit from the boat launch to the side of the road. I got back down to Scotty's with the truck and was able to pick up her and our mountain of stuff. It was still 98 degrees at one in the morning.<br />
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That night we stayed in the ridiculous cushy comfort of a cheap Chico hotel. Air conditioning and a cool shower and soft beds made a pretty sharp contrast to the previous week on the river, though not nearly as scenic.<br />
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Mission accomplished. We didn't drown and we didn't roast.<br />
<br />Wes Modeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13936508359690388713noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207114483493446044.post-92200009286676699162013-07-12T11:57:00.002-07:002017-04-01T17:41:43.769-07:00Bow Eyes and Stern TiedownsSometimes little things can be a big headache. And sometimes big headaches can turn out not to be that big a deal at all. And so it was with the bow eyes and stern tiedowns.<img border="0" height="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfWP-P2yrnH5LvYNot3Y-Pt6Xq8LDibFSaDvkLGDWEkFS8Sz2hxEelpFEByfnD_elKVuV-DBg00l6W5jGDa3mGh1XjEGcgiizYjjjXpFjiCtK5JaBFsTf_MIrmTChD9XaMJo6fiBJaKhp5/s320/Sea-lectBowEyeSecurityLoop.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="0" /><br />
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<a href="http://littleshantyboat.blogspot.com/2012/04/tips-on-how-not-to-die-in-fiery-ball-of.html" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span id="goog_1793037255"></span><img border="0" height="129" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-gIjDmklhzKI5m7MJTL3na92EKEyoLUXwDuQMIGBDHO8WQHpDQ3As3QR-hhJOrrLFN_2KPT5S1Y4YSf1dlYdkTPRm7xK7JMiKmpmRuKa4uptG3HEcWoscGC_zR41yRnYmmaUU4XcZKUQu/s200/shiponroad.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
Here's the idea, I have a trailerable shantyboat. It is really really nice if when I am towing down the road if it stays on the trailer. (See <a href="http://littleshantyboat.blogspot.com/2012/04/tips-on-how-not-to-die-in-fiery-ball-of.html">Tips on how not to die in a fiery ball of twisted metal on the highway</a>.)<br />
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So we add a few hooks into the hull that allow us to attach it to the trailer. Additionally, the boweye will allow us to winch the boat the last few feet onto the trailer, as well as be towed if we ever need to do that.<br />
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A boweye and a stern tiedown look pretty much the same -- typically a stainless steel U-bolt that ties into the framing members of the boat. The price of boweyes varied tremendously, and not necessarily commensurate with the quality of the hardware. That was frustrating. After lots of searching online, I found a high quality, reasonably priced set of boweyes/tiedowns.<br />
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I was not that excited about drilling more holes in my allegedly waterproof hull. Additionally, since there wasn't space within the tight confines of the boat to drill from the inside, I had to drill a hole from the outside and yet still hit the precise center of a one and a half inch framing member. Ack.<br />
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So this required a good deal of measurement, re-measurement, guess-work, and calculation.<br />
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Word on the street is that there is a clever device to make sure that the holes you drill are perpendicular to the plane of the surface you are drilling, a kind of portable drill press. I don't have one of those. I used my carpenter's square to ensure that my hole was perpendicular.<br />
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Despite all my calculations, you can see my first hole that was vertically positioned too high. Inside, the hole was positioned on the framing member without enough space to receive a nut. Laterally though, my holes were perfect positioned.<br />
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I considered epoxying the inside of the holes to prevent damage if water should get inside, but only primed the holes instead.<br />
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I used the special silicone adhesive and sealant (referred to around here as the Black Goo) on the portion that would rest against the hull before tightening the boweye. .<br />
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Inside the bulkhead under the desk, I tightened down the boweye.<br />
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Cleaning up the sealant, I had a beautiful boweye mounted to the center of the bow. Rinse, repeat, and I had the stern tiedowns bolted into the members beneath the stern.<br />
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It wasn't as hard as I'd feared, nor as easy as I hoped. Awesome.Wes Modeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13936508359690388713noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207114483493446044.post-2897043388037793772013-05-18T21:58:00.003-07:002017-04-01T18:02:40.067-07:00The Cabin Has a FloorLet's put in a floor! This is the floor that will be inside the cabin.<img border="0" height="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrURvO-pmO6OukaArp9e6r1zG1pJxXC0sNwjZ5R6OgiRowEZokfxo4XGt8kq8sO9WCGszvmWUqTa8ZX87dgWPEoUdqG678hdgAenceMkKRzqym3s8yp3nodE4irXTn09_ZyTL3b5Cx2YfB/s640/IMG_1072.JPG" width="0" /><br />
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Remember the beautiful old redwood I got from the chicken shed that Jen, Kai, Alex and I <a href="http://littleshantyboat.blogspot.com/2012/04/destruction-and-creation.html" target="_blank">salvaged last year</a>? I wanted to use these thick 1x12s for flooring in the boat. The also have the advantage of putting some weight down into the hull of the boat.<br />
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I had a worry that using straight boards for floorboards, there would be little cracks between them that would constantly filter dust into the bilge and possible squeak when you walked on them. So I had the idea to route the edges to make them lap each other.<br />
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Ten boards, eight foot long, two edges each. That's a lot of routing.<br />
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Actually, none of the boards were eight foot long, so they had to go in piece by piece.<br />
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I used construction adhesive and exterior nails to secure the flooring down. The adhesive will keep the flooring from squeaking and slowly coming up. Modern construction adhesive is so strong, that when you take up plywood that has been adhered down, it comes up in pieces.<br />
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It ended up having a neat look.<br />
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I wanted to put hatches wherever I could under spaces that were not occupied by fixed objects such as the head, the galley, and the woodstove. After the first three boards aft, I had to start getting strategic with my flooring installation.<br />
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It slowly came together. I tried to make the hatch covers match the surrounding boards best I could.<br />
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Here's a really bad idea: Using wood that has been nibbled by termites. Some of the wood when I routed it, not only revealed whole termite empires, but actual live buggies.<br />
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I went to the lumber yard and drenched everything in Copper Green. This is a special (and more expensive) clear preservative. By clear they actually mean, kind of a deep amber -- but that's preferable to the bright green of the regular stuff.<br />
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After all the flooring and the hatches were in, I attacked it with the belt stander, knocking down edges and leaving the different shades a bit more uniform.<br />
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I quite like how it came out. I made mismatched hatch handles for each of the four hatches. Can you spot all four?<br />
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Here's one of the adorable little hatches open.Wes Modeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13936508359690388713noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207114483493446044.post-51734177923143850972013-05-18T21:23:00.000-07:002017-04-01T17:59:54.565-07:00Obsessive woodworking, top sideWith both decks on, I could be an obsessive woodworker again.<br />
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First I shimmed up any really large gaps with thin pieces of wood, epoxying them on. Then I routed all the edges.<br />
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Once I sanded down the bumps and the previous coat of fiberglass, there were still some larger structural gaps that I wanted to fill with thickened epoxy.<br />
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Some of my epoxy kicked off Before Its Time with billows of smoke. Exciting.<br />
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I filled the small spaces and the screw holes with latex wood filler. Filling small cracks is more than aesthetic, when the fiberglass goes over the decks, any cracks or spaces will create air pockets behind the fiberglass. That's bad.<br />
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Then I sanded everything smooth as butter with an orbital sander. Fancy.Wes Modeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13936508359690388713noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207114483493446044.post-17269023846841479852013-05-18T20:51:00.000-07:002017-04-01T17:41:43.514-07:00Installing the aft deckI put the aft deck on. Thought you should know.<br />
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There were some awkward places in the aft section of the boat where the stringers didn't quite line up. One stringer dipped lower than the rest. So I had to add on little thin wedges of wood to the tops of the members. I am a madman with a circ saw and often do ridiculously fine cuts with this not-so-precise tool. Cut, epoxy, attack with the belt sander.<br />
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Voila! You'd never even know. Definitely not once the deck is on.<br />
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Putting the actual deck on was a breeze. You only get photos of the finished results, because what used to worry the hell out of me, mixing up epoxy, brushing both sides, mixing up a thicker batch, applying that to the structural members, and then applying stainless steel screws every six inches to the plywood is really no big deal these days. I did it alone and it was done before I even had a chance to take any photos.<br />
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Notice the brilliant bow in the center of the deck? That's part of the Glen-L design to allow water to run off.<br />
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I know I still have to get under there to bolt in the motor well (and the stern tie-downs), but my excitement got the better of me.<br />
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It totally paid off: Hazel and I have already sat on the back deck enjoying lunch and a well-deserved beer in the shade of the willows.<br />
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<a href="http://thingsorganizedneatly.tumblr.com/" target="_blank">Things organized neatly</a>.<br />
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Wes Modeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13936508359690388713noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207114483493446044.post-64459363912640743572013-05-07T14:23:00.002-07:002017-04-01T17:59:54.570-07:00Motor Well, A Mini-Project Unto ItselfOh, the motor well. Seems simple enough. Build a box that bolts to the back of the boat, upon which the motor clamps.<br />
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I've been working on the motor well since the days of the <a href="http://littleshantyboat.blogspot.com/2013/04/those-troublesome-skegs-part-first.html" target="_blank">Troublesome Skegs</a> and before the <a href="http://littleshantyboat.blogspot.com/2013/05/a-big-flippin-deal.html" target="_blank">Boat Flip</a>.<br />
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Turns out that though this earns only a brief paragraph in the Glen-L Waterlodge instructions, it is really quite time consuming.<br />
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And though the motor well shows up on various views in the plans three times, it still leaves a lot of unspecified dimensions. Despite a lot of fancy maths including tangents and the Pythagorean theorem my first effort to suss out the missing dimensions and angles was a loose collection of mismatched angles and incorrectly cut two-by stock. <br />
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The challenge of the motor well is that there are few right angles, several that are very close, but not quite 90 degrees, several similar obtuse angles and some crazy acute angles. The difficulty lies in translating perfectly good angles and lengths to actual measurements and cuts.<br />
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My second attempt -- salvaging as much of the previously cut wood as I could -- discarded the mathematical approach and did it the way a carpenter would. Rather than cutting the two-by stock first, I marked out the known angles and measurements on plywood, solving the unknowns as I went along. I cut out the 5/8" plywood giving me a useful template that would be used for the sides of the motor well. Finally, I measured and marked the two-by members to match the template. Magic!<br />
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After fitting everything best I could, I epoxied everything together to give me two assembled sides to the motor well.<br />
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This was a logistical challenge similar to <a href="http://littleshantyboat.blogspot.com/2012/07/build-day-side-stringers.html" target="_blank">assembling the side stringers</a> -- you want to align the two-by members facing up, but the screws need to go in from the other side. In this case, the motor well sides were small enough I could assemble the two-by members facing up on saw horses, then put a few screws in from the bottom to hold them together.<br />
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After that, I flipped them over and screwed the shit out of them. All done while everything -- drill, screws, wood, hands -- are covered in sticky goo. Fun!<br />
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I completely encapsulated the wood inside the motor well with epoxy to protect it from decay.<br />
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I know from experience assembling boxes, it is easy to discover in the end that you've created a parallelogram that doesn't fit your last side. How to prevent this? <br />
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I temporarily screwed the bottom on the motor well to square up the sides before assembling the rest of the box. I'm using wax paper to prevent the epoxy from accidentally adhering the bottom. In fact, the bottom won't go on until <i>after</i> the motor well is already bolted on to the hull to allow me access to the bolts. <br />
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Now, I can go ahead and epoxy and screw on the back and the framing members.<br />
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We have to bolt this thing in with 5/8 carriage bolts no greater than six inches apart. Turns out that's a lot, really.<br />
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I marked the bolt holes and drilled from the outside of the motor well using a carpenter's square to get holes perpendicular to the rake of the hull.<br />
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Sixteen bolts for this 2 foot square box hanging off the back of the boat.<br />
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The heads of some of the carriage bolts would fall on angled members, and so needed to be countersunk.<br />
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I needed to temporarily hang this thing so I can mark the bolt holes on the hull. I built a little support jig that took into account the missing bottom piece.<br />
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Here is the motor well on the boat. Fancy.<br />
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Using a wax china pencil, I marked the bolt holes for mounting the motor well.<br />
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It seemed like madness to drill 16 holes in my previously watertight boat hull. Soon, we'll finish the outside of the motor well and bolt it on.<br />
<br />Wes Modeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13936508359690388713noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207114483493446044.post-89790722576610045522013-05-06T17:47:00.000-07:002017-04-01T17:59:54.586-07:00Protecting the BilgeWater is the enemy of wood longevity. Protecting the wood inside the boat, especially in the bilge is critical. Here's the plan, slightly ridiculous in it's conservatism.<br />
<ol>
<li>Two coats of Copper Napthenate (Copper Green) to prevent bacterial and fungal decay.</li>
<li>Two coats of water-based exterior latex primer.</li>
<li>A coat of water-based exterior latex paint.</li>
</ol>
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First though, I wanted to make sure that water in the bilge could flow through the framing members and would not accumulate against one side of the frame. Traditionally, this is called a limber hole.</div>
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Now on to the wood preservation: First Copper Green.</div>
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</div>
Now primer.<br />
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And finally paint.<br />
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<div>
I'm not sure why, but a simple coat of paint makes me so happy.</div>
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Wes Modeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13936508359690388713noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207114483493446044.post-89987539287473103392013-05-06T16:11:00.001-07:002017-04-01T17:59:54.591-07:00A Front Deck and Photos of an Adorable PuppyFirst off, now that the boat is upright, I made Hazel a ramp so she can go in and out of the boat while I'm working.<br />
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Next, I put the front deck on. There are probably things I need to do under there that would be easier without the deck, but my excitement trumps good planning. I know I still need to bolt in the motor well/mount, so the back deck stays off for now.<br />
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If you are following this blog, you've read through the stressful process of using epoxy resin to adhere the boat members together, so I'll skip the narrative blow by blow. Just remember, dealing with epoxy is like <a href="http://littleshantyboat.blogspot.com/2012/07/build-day-epoxy-is-stressful.html" target="_blank">defusing a ticking time bomb</a>.<br />
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So having our first deck on the boat allows Hazel and I to enjoy a much deserved sunny lay-about.<br />
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<br />Wes Modeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13936508359690388713noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207114483493446044.post-78574981234270146012013-05-03T08:23:00.000-07:002017-04-01T17:41:43.732-07:00More Cabin PlanningIf you've been following the blog, you know that one place that I'm diverging from the Glen-L Waterlodge plans is in the cabin. While I have been true to the plans while building the hull, I am increasingly going off into the wild blue as I design and build the cabin. The original plans called for a cabin that looks like this:<br />
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My modifications look like this:<br />
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Here are the details I didn't mention in my last musings about the cabin. It always surprises me that finish details often end up having a bearing on the framing of a structure.<br />
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<h4>
Wall Construction</h4>
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<div>
Cabin wall exterior finish: <b>Board and baton (with beautiful ancient redwood)</b></div>
Cabin wall interior finish: <b>None, boards exposed inside</b><br />
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The cabin is almost two foot lower than the deck. Doors open outward at the top of stairs at deck height -- or maybe they should open inward. I will bring the studs down into the hull to secure them.<br />
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I was fretting about the wall design, whether to use 2x2s, 2x3s or 2x4s. I was worried about the wall being burly and strong enough to hold the cabin together, but that's just because of my history as a home builder and familiarity with standard stud construction.<br />
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In standard frame construction, I imagined the 2x4s forming little natural nooks inside the cabin, that with a cabinet door could hold the innumerable things that clutter up a boat. Broom, fishing poles, gaff, a million other things.<br />
<br />
Chicken John, always ready with an opinion, opined thusly:<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
"I'm not looking at your design. I didn't read the other comments. Whatever it is you are building it's too heavy. After your 5th revision and you've got your weight down to less then 800 pounds, then we can start talking about the simple fact that whatever is on top of the water you need kinda the same thing under the water. Or you will be punished. Get an apple. Bite into it, deliberately Understand the leverage that your teeth are using. Bite again, even slower. Identify all the physics involved. All the muscles. The sharpness of the tooth, the rigidity. Feel when the apple surrenders to the teeth. Then ask when you boat surrenders to which force? And remember that the kayak is the result of 10,000 years of nautical design."</blockquote>
Chicken poetically argues for lighter construction on the topside. So I guess steel armor is right out. I heard others, including the boat's designer Glen L. Witt, similarly expressing concern about weight. <br />
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My friend Scott was worried about the weight of the board and baton, but not the sheer strength:<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
"Boat and batten convey a surprising amount of sheer strength. I'm not so worried about diagonal bracing; and a pair of X-crossed cables could provide lightweight sheer if needed. There's also two feet of stud locked to the hull that's providing sheer, and it's locked in a hole in the deck. It's not going to parallelogram no matter what you make it out of."</blockquote>
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<br />
Bob on the Shantyboat list offered some great suggestions regarding wall width, insulation, and construction technique.<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
If you are going to use 2-bys I would use 2x3's perpendicular. You would still have some space for small jars, containers, etc. I have done that in a Tiny House build, leaving the inside open and gluing in more horizontally for shelves. Works great. I would make any shelving easily removable and live with it that first year with your heat source. That way should you decide insulation would be better you can remove them easily to make insulating easier. </blockquote>
I will probably do board and batton secured every two feet to spacers without plywood. This is ancient redwood and having that redwood facing in will feel sweet. Only worried a little about water/weather proofing, but there is always construction adhesive and caulk.<br />
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<h4>
Roof Construction</h4>
<div>
<br /></div>
Roof style: <b>Gabled</b><br />
Roof finish: <b>Corrugated metal</b><br />
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<br />
The cabin will have a gabled roof and yes, I know that it's totally absurd on a boat for a number of reasons, including height, weight, and wind resistance. However, I really appreciate the aesthetics It is this absurd vision, in fact, that inspired me to build a shantyboat.<br />
<br />
Impracticabilities aside, a gabled roof is really quite practice in a number of ways. Lots of storage space, an overhead bunk can fit in the gable, easy to hang stuff from the rafters. It feels big and beautiful and homey.<br />
<br />
The roof will be gabled fore and aft. This gives a view forward from the bunk through a small window in the gable. It also keeps the height lower at the edges most likely to have a brush with overhanging trees. <br />
<br />
I'll be skimping as much as possible on the roof to save weight.<br />
<ul>
<li>1x6 roof center beam</li>
<li>2x4 rafters on 24 inch centers (to support corrugated metal)</li>
<li>2x4 cross ties on 24 or 48 inch centers, to support an overhead bunk</li>
</ul>
<div>
<br />
Perhaps that gives you a little better idea how things will likely be constructed, and what kind of self-imposed constraints I am working with.</div>
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<br />Wes Modeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13936508359690388713noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207114483493446044.post-26474268321250412812013-05-01T17:28:00.000-07:002017-04-01T17:59:54.560-07:00A Bunch of QuestionsHere's a big pile of questions that occur to me. Solutions will no doubt present themselves, but in the meantime they are open questions. I'm not sweating the answers, but just want to remember to keep them in my mind for now.<br />
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<h4>
Q: How will the winch be mounted on the trailer?</h4>
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<h4>
Q: How will the bow eye attach? Related, how will the transom tie-downs attach?</h4>
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<h4>
Q: Where will the anchor(s) be stored?</h4>
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<h4>
Q: What about anchor line and mooring lines?</h4>
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<h4>
Q: Where will life vests be stowed?</h4>
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<br />Wes Modeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13936508359690388713noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207114483493446044.post-9447259082517858282013-05-01T00:06:00.000-07:002017-04-01T17:59:54.595-07:00A Big Flippin' DealFor months I've been wanting to flip the boat hull so I can start working on the topside. This is no easy feat as the thing is 8 foot wide by 20 foot long. It will take at least 12 people to flip it safely and lift it onto the trailer. I originally planned it for late last year but the scheduling didn't really work for people, and honestly there was a lot of stuff, particularly with the trailer, that could be done before the boat was flipped.<img border="0" height="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-jvtUxBBePFeoRz5bPBKp_U_xlGLHRHW6P2sqKdNMawJBEBmuR42E_7jNqP5wiF_sL4IAt_rdGL3nTRkAj4ovsOESlThAODnjpL_mQIaFczBG0aysNsOGvTOs3l-0dHdvKS0f90NeJKqv/s640/DSC_2160.jpg" width="0" /><br />
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So here we are in early spring, and it's time to flip the boat. I sent out an invite to a few friends who I love working with or who had been dying to come see/work on the boat.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2GEmgDZoG5oFdX8ruF5OJTwXn8SQFGF8TT66bLP6K6SJGV0g_engGbPL4j9DLKxBzZKvOQYwIUOrB0Q3Cr7zBHPdcQ75M6YQcP2vXmZzsppHdyHjdwqyQdlgSClVK_WfK9woU9bAqOgyu/s1600/DSC_2071.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2GEmgDZoG5oFdX8ruF5OJTwXn8SQFGF8TT66bLP6K6SJGV0g_engGbPL4j9DLKxBzZKvOQYwIUOrB0Q3Cr7zBHPdcQ75M6YQcP2vXmZzsppHdyHjdwqyQdlgSClVK_WfK9woU9bAqOgyu/s640/DSC_2071.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
"There will be good beer (and rootbeer) and BBQ sausages and veggie burgers. It will be fun and harrowing and crazy. We will all feel like Superpeople at the end of it. I'd like to find the weekend day that you can make it. If it doesn't sound like something you are into or are too busy, feel free to pass with no guilt."</blockquote>
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<br />
I found a weekend that most everyone could make. I made arrangements with the nearby fire station for parking so we wouldn't be overrun by cars on Lawrence's farm. Jen offered to run a shuttle back and forth.<br />
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This is the Final Details email that went out to the dozen friends who were planning to come:<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<b>"The Plan: </b>We will be flipping the boat
shortly after noon. So maybe we will have a quick snack, a
beer to calm our nerves, and discuss The Plan. We will
stand the boat on its side, then lower it down on its hull,
then after we catch our breath, lift and carry the
boat to the boat trailer. By the way, I've seen video of a dozen people flipping the hull of this boat, so I'm reasonably confident that this is possible."</blockquote>
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<br />
It was important to me that this be a social and rewarding experience. The farm where the boat is being built is one of the most beautiful places in the world to hang out on a sunny day and I wanted to share that with my friends in style.<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<div>
<b>"BBQ and celebration: </b>After the boat is
flipped and safely on the trailer, we can celebrate with a
BBQ! I'll make sure there are sausages and veggie burgers
and some beer at the BBQ. If you want, you are welcome to
bring other BBQ/picnic style items. Suggestions: hot dogs,
chips, your grandma's potato salad, fancy homebrew, fruit
salad, pie/cobbler, corn-on-the-cob, coleslaw,
and sauerkraut."</div>
</blockquote>
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I'd checked in with the land owner and indeed they had some (gentle) reservations. I prudently added this to the communication with the Boat Flippers:<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<div>
<b>"Fine Print: </b>The land owner may have concerns that someone will be crushed on his property (though I think it is unlikely), so I might ask you to sign something to release my generous boat-landlord from liability. Hope that works for you. I really want to work hard to respect any concerns that Lawrence and his family might have."</div>
</blockquote>
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<br />
The day was bright and sunny, a perfect spring day. Jen shuttled people from the parking site. People arrived promptly, signed a release, and had a snack and a beer.<br />
<br />
<br />
We took a while going over The Plan. We talked about safety and how we wanted to protect our precious soft little bodies. We even demonstrated with our hands as a visual aid, precisely where everyone would stand as we flipped the boat. <br />
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<br />
At the end of our discussion about The Plan, just before we sprung into action, I asked the most important question: <br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
"If any of you are thinking something right now, that later, after everything goes horribly wrong, you might say 'Yeah, I was wondering about that,' or 'I thought that might be a problem,' I urge you to share it with us now."</blockquote>
There were no strong concerns or reservations and so we sprung.<br />
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<br />
We fiddled with the trailer to make lifting the boat onto it easier and safer. We brought the tongue down and put a tire over the hitch mechanism to protect the hull.<br />
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<br />
We got into places with some butterflies in our tummy.<br />
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<br />
We went over The Plan one more time.<br />
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<br />
Jen had an important role. She was responsible for making sure the hull landed on the tires that we had laid out to receive the boat.<br />
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<br />
Okay, wait, one more time. Just making sure we got The Plan.<br />
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<br />
With a count of ONE-TWO-THREE-LIFT! we lifted the hull to a vertical position.<br />
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At the ends, we needed people responsible for keeping the hull upright while everyone else transitioned to the other side.<br />
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Alex and Myriam were at one end. Kai and Frank were on the other.<br />
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Meanwhile, everyone else went around to the other side and prepared to lower the boat. James, Mikey, Charlie, Jason, Jeremiah, Baerie, and I.<br />
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Another countdown and we were slowly slowly lowering this crazy heavy object from a vertical position (which somehow seemed gnarlier than lifting it).<br />
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There was some concern that the bottom would kick out as we lowered it, but it didn't. <br />
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High-fives all around.<br />
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Now we took a deep breath and prepared ourselves for lifting the boat onto the trailer.<br />
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How heavy will it be? Who knows?<br />
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Will we even be able to lift it? Hopefully, but we don't really know.<br />
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Someone suggested a test lift. Good idea! Let's see how heavy it is by just lifting it a little bit. We will lift it and then put it right back down. Okay, ready, lift!<br />
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And up it goes! It's not a million pounds! This is do-able! Someone suggested (probably me), Fuck it, let's just do it. So we do it.<br />
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We lift and carry it to the trailer.<br />
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And on the trailer it goes.<br />
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Later, several people tell me that there weren't really enough people at the front. So they weren't up there thinking, "Oh, how light! How nimble!" They were up there thinking, "Arrrggghhh! What happened to the Test Lift?"<br />
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Again, I am reminded -- as if I should need another reminder -- about the importance of sticking with The Plan.<br />
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A round of celebratory Boat Boarding! Kids, dogs, everyone! Hadasa, Nitzi, and Ziva were the little ones who joined us on Boat Flip day.<br />
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And now it's time for barbecue!<br />
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Kai and Hazel warmed up the BBQ.<br />
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After a few beers, it seems imperative that the boat building form must be removed from the boat <i>right now</i>.<br />
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More high-fives!<br />
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And we hang around for another several hours stuffing ourselves with sausages, cobbler, Baerie's homemade cider, and beer.<br />
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Thanks to awesome friends who made this not only possible, but tremendously fun, my favorite boat work day so far. And thanks to Madrone who was official photographer for the day.<br />
<br />Wes Modeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13936508359690388713noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207114483493446044.post-78793000649932684782013-04-23T15:32:00.000-07:002017-04-01T17:41:15.426-07:00Fancy Pants New RenderingsSince I originally made my 3D sketches of the shantyboat, a few things changed, a few things forgotten about were remembered, and I've learned a lot about the boat's construction. I wanted to reflect those changes in my 3D sketches.<br />
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In these renderings, you can see the addition of the head which bumps out on the aft porch a bit. Also, of course, the motor well and Mr. Johnson have been added.<br />
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Less evident is that I positioned the floor correctly 21 inches below the deck. I also resized and repositioned the windows.<br />
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Here are colored and textured versions of same.<br />
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What you can't see from the outside is the bucket shitter in the head.<br />
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There you go. 3D rendering doesn't make anything more real, but it does help me understand some of the challenges I'll face when I start constructing the cabin.<br />
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Also, please note that I was unable to find a Queensland heeler 3D model for Hazel, so for now, the border collie continues to be a stand-in.<br />
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This is a rendering of you trying futilely to get on the boat while my 3D models callously look on unwilling to raise a finger to help.<br />
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UPDATE: I spent a ridiculous amount of time learning how to create 3D components from illustrator files. New rendering, now with more Hazel dog!<br />
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<br />Wes Modeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13936508359690388713noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207114483493446044.post-76391982192467046112013-04-18T23:01:00.000-07:002017-04-01T17:59:54.575-07:00Thinking About Cabin ConstructionNow that the boat is ready to be flipped, I'm thinking again about the cabin. Here's the plan, in general, for the completed shantyboat.<img border="0" height="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigIands4UdEAhkPbf_k91DWVsiVB9PaQklCbJGL1pG-HPDdpRhypdB4QpX2ABEYWXJu6SCo6f2dVtnpT8B6CEBe0s_37kqjCii1XWrdZtZQEDJa8n9M68WI2L-KNexWoMH_-vOYCPWwzEs/s640/IMG_0674.JPG" width="0" /><br />
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I'd been giving some thought earlier to the cabin layout, but finally sat down and planned everything out using real measurement.<br />
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In clockwise order from top left:<br />
<ol>
<li>Small galley with 2-burner stove and sink</li>
<li>Couch with resident dog and cat</li>
<li>Bucket shitter (entered from the aft deck)</li>
<li>Aft stairs</li>
<li>Lounge chair</li>
<li>Woodburning stove</li>
<li>Table / chairs</li>
<li>Fore stairs</li>
</ol>
<div>
Now lets get down to brass tacks: Looking at wall construction.</div>
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This is the side wall, first a sketchy sketch, then a more accurate one. Pretty simple really. <br />
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It took some thought to place the windows in a vertical position that felt right. The expected window position of the inside and the outside are kind of at odds since the floor of the cabin is dropped nearly two feet below the level of the deck. From the inside, I want the windows to be more or less at eye level and not too high. And from the outside, where the cabin appears to sit on the deck, I want the windows to be a little above the midpoint of the cabin.<br />
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I decided on slightly tall windows at 3 ft which resolves the issue to some degree. Three foot or so from the floor inside and just above the midpoint of the cabin outside.<br />
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The original cabin plans call for 2x3 structural members turned parallel to the wall. I originally considered using perpendicular 2x4s in standard frame construction so I'd have natural nooks and crannies between the studs that would be easy to turn into storage.<br />
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So I'm kinda confounded on which method I should choose. I'm trying to measure the pros and cons of each.<br />
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<center>
<table cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" style="border: solid 1px #888888; width: 90%;">
<tbody>
<tr><td colspan="3" style="border: solid 1px #888888;"><b>2x2 Wall Construction</b></td></tr>
<tr><td valign="top" width="33%"><b>Pro:</b><br />
Lighter<br />
Takes less space<br />
Less material<br />
Easy to connect</td><td valign="top" width="33%"><b>Con:</b><br />
Harder to diagonal brace<br />
No nooks between studs</td><td valign="top" width="33%"><b>Note:</b><br />
Recommended by pretty much everyone in the boat community, but feels flimsy to me.</td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="3" style="border: solid 1px #888888;"><b>2x4s Parallel with Wall</b></td></tr>
<tr><td valign="top" width="33%"><b>Pro:</b><br />
Takes up less space</td><td valign="top" width="33%"><b>Con:</b><br />
Heavier<br />
Harder to connect<br />
No nooks between studs<br />
Harder to diagonal brace</td><td valign="top" width="33%"><b>Note:</b><br />
Makes thinner walls and weirder window openings.</td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="3" style="border: solid 1px #888888;"><b>2x4s Perpendicular with Wall (standard framing)</b></td></tr>
<tr><td valign="top" width="33%"><b>Pro:</b><br />
Natural Nooks between studs<br />
Conventional technique<br />
Easy to connect</td><td valign="top" width="33%"><b>Con:</b><br />
Heavier<br />
Takes more space</td><td valign="top" width="33%"><b>Note:</b><br />
Standard construction, typical window framing, including sills.</td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="3" style="border: solid 1px #888888;"><b>2x3s Perpendicular with Wall (compromise)</b></td></tr>
<tr><td valign="top" width="33%"><b>Pro:</b><br />
Natural (smaller) Nooks<br />
Like conventional technique<br />
Easy to connect<br />
Lighter than full studs</td><td valign="top" width="33%"><b>Con:</b><br />
A little heaver than 2x2</td><td valign="top" width="33%"><b>Note:</b><br />
This might be a good compromise. Solid framing with reduced weight.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</center>
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Hopefully, you'll weigh in with your expert and experienced opinion. Or maybe you'll weigh in with your totally inexperienced pet theory, that's fine too.<br />
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After we flip the boat and add the front and rear decks, we'll be coming up on building the cabin pretty quick here.<br />
<br />Wes Modeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13936508359690388713noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207114483493446044.post-12972824200778665222013-04-16T22:54:00.000-07:002017-04-01T18:00:21.340-07:00Welding the TrailerTimeline: Less than a week before the boat flip! The trailer needs several repair welds to make it safe. The clock is ticking.<br />
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I got a recommendation for a welder from the same awesome friend at the lumberyard who sold me the skids. I called the guy on an odd Thursday that I was playing hooky from work, a week before the planned boat flip. He said "Are you there now? I'm just up the road from you."<br />
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A few minutes later, he roared in on his Harley chopper, wearing an orange jumpsuit with reflective stripes like a tow truck driver. A big man, white hair in a crew cut, probably in late middle age, who looked like he'd just gotten in a serious bar fight the day before and lost. He introduced himself as Matt and I didn't ask why he had a black eye.<br />
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I showed him the breaks on the center lateral crossbeam. He pointed out that there were breaks on <i>both</i> sides of the trailer, basically, in every place where the crossbeam was welded it was stressed and breaking. He noted that the two pairs of leaf springs met at an arm welded to that crossbeam and that it took a lot of stress.<br />
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He said it'd be no problem doing the repair welds, but that what he recommended was replacing that crossbeam. I said, "Now, it's beginning to sound expensive."<br />
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"Nah," he dismissed it, "I can flip the trailer with the crane on my truck, cut out the crossbeam, weld in a new one, and flip it back. Probably take no more than a hour. I think that's eighth inch. I think I have some quarter inch square stock on my pile at home."<br />
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I was still reeling from all this for a while. No more than an hour? Any one of the steps he mentioned I guessed would take me all day... if I had the proper equipment, which I didn't. We made a date for the following Tuesday.<br />
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I imagined that he'd have one of those sad little cherry pickers on the back of a beefy pickup. I hoped it wouldn't be too laborious and that he'd not too badly underestimated the job.<br />
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I was at the boat site on Tuesday when he pulled in with his gianormous truck. Like Santa, he said not a word, but went straight to his work.<br />
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The crane was no cherry picker, but a proper crane with a fancy remote control that Matt deftly wielded. When he'd said he'd pick up the trailer to flip it, he meant it. Up it went, easy as pie, this enormous 20 foot behemoth tossed around like a toy.<br />
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His truck was like Santa's magic sack. He had attachments for household current, compressed air, arc voltage, everything he needed with hoses and cords all neatly coiled on hooks in back.<br />
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<br />
He flipped it over and immediately started cutting out the center crossbeam (visible in the photos above as a thick black line running between the axles) with a nifty plasma cutter that made my cutting torch blush with envy.<br />
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He used the crane to lift while he cut. This took a few minutes or so, with a few sticky parts where the crossbeam was welded better in some places. He mentioned that he was surprised it had lasted as long as it did.<br />
<br />
Within minutes he had the old crossbeam out and was cutting the new one to size with a giant chopsaw. I helped him maneuver it into place and he began welding it immediately. His welds were like beautiful marzipan. They were flawless and elegant.<br />
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As he finished a section, I'd attack it with a wire brush and coat the still warm weld with Rust-Oleum.<br />
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Having the trailer upside down would have made painting the underside considerably easier. I did use the opportunity to hit any rusted metal I'd missed.<br />
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Not content to simple fix the suspension, Matt went over the whole trailer, fixing places on the underside where the trailer was inadequately welded or the original builder had simply failed to weld.<br />
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He concentrated for a while on the area where the tongue of the trailer attached to the rest of the trailer: None of the members there has been welded on the underside. "Considering this is where the trailer attaches to the truck, this seems pretty important," Matt said.<br />
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When he was all done, the trailer was not simply repaired, but better than it had been when it was constructed. Matt charged me so little for the work, I was little embarrassed. Would that cover the diesel for his truck, the welding sticks he used, the time he made available for me? I hoped so, because he seemed like a really nice guy.<br />
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He deftly picked up the trailer and flipped it back over and was on his way.<br />
<br />Wes Modeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13936508359690388713noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207114483493446044.post-56879399465972421472013-04-15T22:55:00.000-07:002017-04-01T18:00:21.356-07:00And now back to the trailerRemember the trailer? <a href="http://littleshantyboat.blogspot.com/2012/04/boating-errand-in-flattest-dryest-spot.html" target="_blank">This one, the one that almost killed us?</a><br />
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We left the shantyboat hull pretty complete. Now that the boat is ready to be flipped, we turn our attention back to the trailer.<br />
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It is really a rusty, janky old thing. I've owned it for fifteen years or so, or sorta owned it since I bought it with Sean for our Burning Man theme camp, the Costco Soulmate Trading Outlet. It's been stolen and recovered, broken and repaired on the road. We used to haul that thing back and forth loaded to the gills over the Sierra Nevada Mountains, taking our lives into our own hands. Then we realized that if we stored it in the desert, we could save wear and tear on our mortality. So there it stayed for about ten years.<br />
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When the camp realized it could buy a shipping container and have it dropped off at their campsite every year without the hassle of dealing with That Trailer, the poor thing got abandoned for a few years out in the Nevada wilds. You remember that I drove out to the desert with Alex to rescue our friend the trailer, a trip with nearly fatal results.<br />
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So here it is, a 20 foot flatbed, maybe suited to my shantyboat, maybe not, needing suspension work, a coat of paint, deck repair, and maybe some repair welds.<br />
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The first thing I did was fire up my cutting torch and cut off the weird distinctive triangle things, and ground down the cuts. I always assumed they were there as a token gesture to structural reinforcement.<br />
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I replaced all the deck bolts that had rusted through, grinding off and replacing any that had loosened. The deck needed about 50 new bolts. This alone made the deck much more stable.<br />
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I gave all the metal on the entire trailer, top and bottom, a new coat of Rust-Oleum. I had to get suited up to prevent myself from being painted too thoroughly, climbing under the trailer and applying paint overhead.<br />
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It looked pretty good when I was done. Though crawling around under the trailer, I saw several places where the metal was cracked, principally around the lateral beam that joined the two pairs of leaf springs on either side.<br />
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For a while, I'd been sweating how to make the skids that would hold up the boat. I considered using recycled railroad ties since I could get them for free at the local trainyard, but their height and condition were too inconsistent. Eventually I got a ridiculous deal from a friend at the local lumberyard who found me some 6x6 treated lumber seconds that had a barely perceptible twist or were split a bit at one end.<br />
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I positioned the skids so one set would lie just inside of the skegs, and the other set so they lay at the outside edge of the trailer, as far out as could be secured. I figured this would support the boat along the stringers as well as give it side-to-side stability, something I thought would be extra important as we were trucking down the highway.<br />
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I drilled bolt holes through the skids and into the support brackets under the trailer.<br />
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I put big long 8 inch carriage bolts through the skids. For extra measure, I painted the bottom and tops of the carriage bolts. Lawrence joined me for a bit and serenaded me with excellent banjo tunes.<br />
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To prevent the skids from damaging the surface of the hull, I chamfered the sharp edges of the skids with my skill saw.<br />
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I cut the ends of each skid at an angle to guide the skegs while the boat was being trailered. Though honestly, I don't think the skegs at the back of the boat will be anywhere near the skids, since that end of the trailer will be deep under water and the back of the boat high above it during a boat launch or trailering. But it seemed like a good idea.<br />
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Then I covered the skids with indoor/outdoor low-pile carpet, stapling and using roofing nails at the edges.<br />
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The result was surprisingly legit looking.<br />
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Then Jen and I sat on the trailer and had a beer. Something about this trailer makes you <a href="http://littleshantyboat.blogspot.com/2012/04/boating-errand-in-flattest-dryest-spot.html" target="_blank">want to sit on it and have a drink</a>. What's that about?<br />
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Next, the superhero of heavy duty welding flies the trailer high into the sky and melts it with his heat ray vision!<br />
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<br />Wes Modeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13936508359690388713noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207114483493446044.post-74873075466933607332013-04-15T19:48:00.000-07:002017-04-01T18:00:21.377-07:00The Talented Mr. JohnsonFor a while now, my cousin Brian has been wanting to introduce me to Mr. Johnson. He's had Mr. Johnson living with him for a time and thinks he'll be just the person to help get my shantyboat project going.<img border="0" height="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiTUXzVVcAMBaAtMyXjG8RWujb6tPIfdd5vtkT8O8GkHGiwTVI2zFd0Junkhmbwk24Hq11eAng73RgqOsk1j1JW0_Q3A3TNPT46SRvWpp4YIU-qzXQMbE8OCCpjnl1708tQLjnCAj8d6Uv/s400/IMG_0568.JPG" width="0" /><br />
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I'd been thinking about powering this little craft, particularly as I put the finishing touches on the hull. There is a place in the plans where an outboard is drawn in dotted lines like a ghostly visitor in comics. I even started working on the motor well, the little box that gets attached to the stern of the boat where the motor attaches.<br />
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So I started asking acound, Anyone know of a good cheap outboard, just a little thing that might push my little barge boat around?<br />
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Cousin Brian was dying to introduce me to Mr. Johnson. Here he is. He's a 9.5 HP outboard. I forget what year. Mid 70's, I think.<br />
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Brian thought he should come live with me. He demonstrated Mr. Johnson's prowess in a barrel of water in the driveway of his suburban home. Mr. Johnson revved and smoked and burbled just like a good motor should.<br />
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Brian -- who is a master of boats and outboards and fishing and BBQs and other manly stuff -- taught me some of the things I need to know about Mr. Johnson. He had me take a photograph of the correct oil Mr. Johnson wants mixed with his gasoline, though I immediately forget the proportions.<br />
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And I need to get me one of these: A gas container with a fancy attachment doodad.<br />
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Here Brian poses with Mr. Johnson, demonstrating, the people he thinks will be drawn to my hillbilly shantyboat.</div>
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I think he might be saying in a hick drawl: "Hey, Cleatus, you gotta take a look at this. Ain't that the durndest thing?"Wes Modeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13936508359690388713noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207114483493446044.post-73028733391044278222013-04-08T00:17:00.001-07:002017-04-01T18:00:21.372-07:00Those Troublesome Skegs, Finishing TouchesSo the skegs are mounted, but the carriage bolt countersinks are still there. Let's fix that. <br />
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I bought a hardwood dowel of the same diameter as my countersink holes. Happily, the grain ran crossways the length of the dowel, making sweet little plugs when I cut little coins off the end.<br />
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A story in pictures.<br />
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So glad to be done with the skegs. Here's how the process left me feeling...<br />
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<br />Wes Modeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13936508359690388713noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-207114483493446044.post-57200655611855045402013-04-07T23:47:00.002-07:002017-04-01T18:00:21.361-07:00Those Troublesome Skegs, Mistakes Were MadeSo the skegs have been cut, spliced, drilled, countersunk, stained, and finished. Now we only have to mount them. Easy, right? Ahem.<br />
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I looked for a long time to find just the right sealant and adhesive for the skegs. They get bolted down of course, but you have to seal them really well, both to adhere them and to keep water from creeping into the bolt holes. You want something that is flexible, waterproof, low adhesion (since you don't want to tear the boat apart if you need to replace the skegs), and won't cost an arm and a leg. <br />
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They had something that would probably have worked at the local marine supply place. But I was suspicious that they turned me upside down and shook out my pockets to see how much money I had when I walked in. Everything there was ridiculously expensive. They sold tubes of standard window caulk for $20, the same stuff you can get at the hardware store for less than $5. I went to the internets and found something that fit the bill for much much less.<br />
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As a former contractor, I've used caulk a lot. You apply a modest bead of sealant and apply pressure, wherein it spreads out nicely along the surface. That was my theory here too.<br />
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I mounted both bottom skegs before I realized that the caulk was not cooperating. The thick sealant didn't really spread and remained as a modest bead. I put all the bolts in, I had everything together.<br />
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At first I thought, eh, it's probably okay. Then the more I thought about it, <i>a boat with inadequately sealed holes in the bottom</i> was not a great idea. I realized as much as I hated it, I was going to have to do it over.<br />
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Removing the skegs was easier said than done. If this is low adhesive, I'm glad I didn't use anything gnarlier, and I'm glad I didn't tear up the boat any more than I did in my efforts.<br />
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I removed the skegs, scraped off the sealant, sanded it down, and refinished. <br />
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Then I applied the sealant the way I should have from the beginning, very generously. </div>
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I drove the bolts part way through and set the skegs in place, struggling a bit to line up all the holes.<br />
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Then I went under the boat, added washers and nuts, and tightened the shit out of everything. I struggled a lot with this as some of the bolts were a little too short and needed to be replaced. And some of the bolts were a little too long and needed to be cut. This time the sealant went squish out the sides like it was supposed to.<br />
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The bottom skegs met up nicely with the forward skegs.<br />
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The result was a much more boaty looking boat.<br />
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The last thing I need to do is a little finishing work to the countersunk ends of the carriage bolts.</div>
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Wes Modeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13936508359690388713noreply@blogger.com